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Dormé's Goodbye Gown

Like I said, I haven't seen AOTC, but I do like the handmaidens and Dormé has some pretty nice costumes. I think my favorite is the outfit she wears while she says goodbye to Padmé on the "bus" thing...AND since I haven't seen the movie, that's all I really know. ANYhow, I told the Royal Handmaiden Society that I'd do a write up on Dormé's costume, so here it is.

The first layer is a gray undergown. It has a high neck, cut in three or more pieces and with a point in the center front, bottom. The point is visible here, and the placement of the two vertical construction scenes are visible in this photo. My sketch of the collar is here, but I haven't resized the file yet so it's rather large. There are more notes on the image, provided you can read my lovely chicken scratch! ;D

The fabric for the underdress is a light to medium gray with little "squiggles" all over it. They look to be printed on in black, but a crushed fabric would look nice in a recreation as well. There are no darts or princess seams visible, but they may very well exist only to be covered by the coat, which is the next layer. The fit is so smooth that they almost have to be there. The skirt is a nice a-line shape, so it's probably gored, and it just looks too tailored to not have shaping of some sort on top. Also, the hem of the dress stands out rather than draping softly. Possibly the fabric is interlined, or there is horsehair braid at the hem. The coat would also weigh it down some, so the stiffening must be somewhat substantial.

The next article of clothing is her coat. It's a lovely dark gray color, done in a dark gray-black weave. It looks textured, like some suits.
Personally, I don't think that the collar is attached to the coat. Either that, or it is just tacked down at the top, since the coat is belted but the bottom of the collar goes OVER the belt, not UNDER it. That would mean that the coat, which does not close in front, basically has a rounded neck that drops straight down from the shoulder and the edges are covered by the collar later on. I made a sketch of it, right here. It also is rather large. Bad Katie, not re-sizing her pictures! My appologies. There are yet more notes in that image. However, since they're illegible, I'll type the ones I haven't covered here:
~Definite side seam--there is a seam visible down the side of the coat, where a standard side seam would be. The skirt of the coat is definitely gored, at least in front.
~The sleeves look like a variation of the "leg-o-mutton" shape, they look a little Victorian to me. They're puffed a tiny bit at the shoulder and shaped slightly like at teardrop pointing down to the elbow, where they get tight and fit smoothly over the forearm. They are fitted over the heel of the hand, shaped that way so they don't bag or wrinkle over the wrist. They extend not quite to the base of the thumb.
~The back is very fitted with little ease of motion. The coat pulls behind the arms and across the shoulders, so I'm betting that Dormé had a limited range of arm movement in this dress. This might have been achieved with princess seams, or there may be a waist seam that is covered by the belt. Perhaps there are both, which would account for no visible (not saying they aren't there, just that I can't find them) seams in the back of the skirt but a smooth fit for the top of the back. Something like this, perhaps. The two curved lines represent where I think there would be princess seams, based on the way the fabric wrinkles, and also on how nicely the back fits over her shoulder blades. The bottom line, where there might be a waist seam, is purely speculation.
~The belt goes over both the underdress and the coat, but underneath the collar. It's of the same fabric of the coat, and it also has a side seam, though not in the same place the coat does. It closes in front with an enameled, decorative buckle. Speculation, again, but it seems likely.
~The coat is just a tiny bit shorter than the underdress in the full length picture, but that might just be how she's standing or some such thing.

The collar is the most decorative thing about this outfit. I think that it is constructed separately from the coat and perhaps tacked on for stability and continuity--so it would behave right in every take. It's shaped like a shawl collar, but with a twist. It's two two layers, lined, and it curves in toward the edge of the coat like a normal rolled/shawl collar, but then it swoops out again, making a little "pocket" thing at the bottom. Here, I diagrammed it, since words are obviously failing. There we go. THIS one was resized, since I scanned it later and wasn't in such a hurry.
Yes, it says "napkin ring" in the bottom left corner. The bottom of the collar is pinched in and fed through a fabric tube, much like a napkin ring. The righthand image shows my speculation on how the collar is shaped, then pinched together in the fabric ring.
Fabric--The outer is the same as the coat, and it's lined with some sort of blue silk, taffeta, or something fancy like that. It's not satin--not shiny enough. I want to say a blue-yellow shot taffeta-type fabric.

The last order of business--the belt buckle. This is the best picture of it I've seen, and here is my sketch of it. Not to scale, not actual size, but I think it's a fairly good rough sketch of it.


Dormé is not mine--she's George Lucas'. I just do this for fun (and also in my pursuit of procrastination as an art form.) The images are courtesy of the Royal Handmaiden Society, except for the ones that I sketched myself. Also, any alterations to the images from the RHS were explicitly to illustrate a point and not intended to "spindle, fold, or mutilate" for any purpose other than illustrating said point. Am I done covering my butt yet? Wait! I used a quote without crediting it! *gasp* If you must know, my band director said that. Mr. Cathcart. Okay, now am I done?